How to reintroduce cats

When you have cats who aren’t getting along and all your attempts at behavior work have been unsuccessful, it may be time to do a reintroduction. If the aggression between your cats is severe or if they can’t even be within sight of each other without an immediate brawl taking place, then a reintroduction is a must.

As hard as you may have tried to get the cats to reach a peace agreement, the ongoing tension of always being in sight of each other may keep triggering their negative associations. It’s at that point the best thing to do is wipe the slate clean, give each cat a breather in their own space so they can de-stress, and then you can start to do a gradual reintroduction.

With a reintroduction you’ll separate the cats and introduce them in the same way you would as if they had never met. The reintroduction gives each cat time to get back to normal and not be so stressed so you can help them gradually get comfortable with each other again. It’s a method which promotes taking things in baby steps so no one gets overwhelmed.

Attempting to keep a lid on serious intercat aggression when the cats are constantly in each other’s sight can be very counterproductive because both cats remain at such a high level of reactivity. There’s also a good chance that one or both of the cats could get injured (perhaps severely). The reintroduction method gives you more control to avoid potential injury. It also allows you to keep the interaction between the cats at a level that doesn’t spark extreme reactions. 

It must be noted that there are no guarantees even with a slow reintroduction that the cats will be able to integrate peacefully again and be able to at least tolerate each other. However, the only chance of a peace agreement will be a SLOW reintroduction.

This will be determined by how serious the aggression has been, how much time you can dedicate to doing the behavior work, and how receptive the cats are. In other words, I wish I could give you a set timeline but you have to go at the cats’ pace. Every situation is unique. I will tell you though, it’s better to go slower than you think is needed. Don’t be determined to get this done in a set amount of time to fit your schedule, or think you can do this in a weekend because that’s what worked for your friend’s situation with their cats. Patience is the key to success! It will most likely take weeks and sometimes months.

Separate the cats by creating a sanctuary room for one of them. If your house is set up in such a way that you can divide it up so each cat has their own territory, then that will do as well. If you’re setting up a sanctuary room, you just need a separate room that can be closed off. The room needs to be equipped with a food, water, litter box, scratching post, toys and some cozy napping places. A window seat is plus as well. A sanctuary room isn’t a prison cell. A sanctuary room should be a place where a cat can feel comfortable and can de-stress. Don’t view it as it you’re locking a cat away or punishing them.

If you’re wondering which cat to put in the sanctuary room and which cat to let have the run of the rest of the house, here’s how I typically make the decision. If one cat is clearly displaying ongoing offensive aggression then that’s the cat I usually put in the sanctuary room. That way, the cat who is being so overt in their aggressive display isn’t able to think that they ran the other cat off and is the mighty winner. However, if the cat who is the “victim” is too stressed or nervous about having the run the house then putting them in the sanctuary room may provide more security. You have to make the decision based on the dynamics between the cats and also the individual personalities. The most important aspect of this is that the cats get separated. 

[All About Purrs recommendation: If your home will allow for two sanctuary rooms/areas, this is ideal. Set each cat up in their own space. This will leave the core area of the home as the common area for both cats during the reintroduction process.]

The separation is mainly to allow the cats to relax again and also to prevent further injury or aggressive displays. It’s important though that this time of separation not be viewed as  punishment. Play with each cat, spend time with the cat in the sanctuary room and make this experience as enjoyable as possible. It may be inconvenient for a while as you make sure each cat gets adequate attention, affection, and enrichment, but it’s crucial to maintain the bond you have with your cats and help them feel confident, relaxed, and safe. 

It is critical to prey play daily with the "victim" cat during this time. This cat's confidence needs to be built back up and the fastest way to do this is through simulated hunting or prey play.

WHEN TO MOVE TO STEP 2?

After BOTH cats have returned to a relaxed "normal" state (for their personalities), then you can consider moving on the Step 2. In general, Step 1 usually takes about 1-2 weeks.

Just as with a new cat introduction, the main purpose of the reintroduction is to give the cats a reason to like each other. That means it’s the behavior work you do while the cats are separated that will make the difference when the cats are once again exposed to each other. You can’t just separate the cats for an extended period of time and then open the door expecting them to have forgotten that they have been arch enemies for the last four years. They’ll need to see that good things happen when they’re in the presence of each other (behind closed door), and later, within sight of each other. If you do this gradually enough and allow each cat to stay within their comfort zones, your chances of keeping their aggression from boiling over again will be greatly increased. 

During the exposure time you’ll use a very valuable behavior tool: food. Remember the old adage that said the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach? Well, that really applies when you’re talking about cats! Food can help accelerate the acceptance process. 

Feed the cats by placing food bowls on either side of a sanctuary door (the door is closed). How far from the door itself will be determined based on how reactive the cats appear. In subsequent sessions you’ll gradually move the bowls closer. I usually start with the bowls on opposite sides of the rooms and gradually work closer in each session. I always feel it’s better to take baby steps so I have more control. If feeding meals is too stressful initially, then use treats.

If one cat eats faster than the other use a dish with some obstacles in it (such as a slow-feeder bowl). If you’re feeding wet food you can also push the food against the bottom and sides of the bowl so the cat has to work a bit harder to get it. Another product I frequently use with both introductions and reintroductions is the Lickimat. This is a rubber mat with little nubs sticking up where food can be embedded. The cat has to spend more time licking the mat to get the food. You can use wet food, or wet treat products such as Churu. Both of these products can be found at pet supply stores or online. 

Step 3 can be running concurrent with Step 2 unless one or both of the cats are having a reaction (showing anxiety) during the scent swapping.

Take a closer look at how your environment has been set up to see if there’s anything you can do to improve enrichment and a sense of security. The more interior territory you can create, the easier it’ll be for each cat to find enough personal space. With an indoor environment cats have to overlap some of their personal territory so the more you can assist them with this, the better. Use cat trees, perches, cat shelving, and hideaways to create low, medium and high levels. If you increase the elevated territory in the environment you’ll greatly increase the cats’ perception of the amount of territory they have. Vertical territory also helps a cat’s sense of safety and security because they know it’ll be more difficult for an opponent to ambush from behind. The vertical territory also increases a cat’s visual advantage in order to see if an opponent is approaching. The ability to scope out the territory is a big plus from a cat’s perspective. Some cats also use vertical territory as way to display status and it can often avert an actual physical confrontation. 

Increase environmental enrichment to give the cats ways to divert their attention, release energy and have fun! Set up food-dispensing toys, puzzle toys, and other opportunities for solo playtime. A bird feeder outside the window or some cat shelves for climbing and playing may divert attention and ease tension. You can also play some YouTube "Cat TV" videos that showcase small wildlife. Increased enrichment will give the cats something to focus on other than each other. 

If the previous set-up in the environment included having your cats share one litter box and one scratching post, you should increase those numbers. During the time the cats were separated you already had to increase the number of resources so keep that up once the cats are together again. The less the cats have to share and/or compete for, the less likely they’ll fight. Provide multiple litter boxes in various locations around the house so a cat doesn’t have to cross the path of the other cat. The same goes for scratching posts and any other valued resources. 

When it comes to meals, provide separate bowls for the cats. This will help lessen the chance of competition and concern for resources. In some cases, depending on your specific situation, you may find that the best way to create a peaceful co-existence during mealtime is to feed the cats in separate locations. 

Remember the Importance of Choice When it Comes to Cats

A cat who doesn’t feel they have a choice is the cat who feels threatened. The cat who feels backed in a corner is the one who will lash out or display unwanted behavior. As you go through the reintroduction process, keep in mind how important choice is to a cat so you can tweak and adjust your process to provide that crucial necessity.

If you have a question regarding your cat’s health, please contact your veterinarian. This article is not intended as a replacement for your cat’s veterinary care.

Content Source: CatBehaviorAssociates.com

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